Sew: Invisible Elastic Waist Stretch Pencil Skirt {No Pattern, No Pins & Sewn in 20 mins}

The pencil skirt is one of those universal garments that always look fabulous on pretty much everyone! Even though I am bigger and my tummy sticks out, I still love a good pencil skirt. And stretchy pencil skirts are my favourite kind! They are super practical, comfortable and easy to wear. Great in hot weather with just a tee or over leggings in the cooler months. My life is pretty casual and most of my time is spent running errands, sewing or sitting at the laptop, so these skirts are perfect. With just a few accessories you can take this skirt from day to night or from daycare to the office! The weather here has been so hot lately, I’ve been wearing all of my skirts constantly! I decided to whip up a leopard version so I could show you how I make them. Also, my sewing room is the hottest room in the house and it’s too sweltering to make anything that takes longer than 20 mins to sew. Yes! They’re really that quick to make!

Several years ago I wrote a tutorial for a one seam stretch skirt with a yoga waistband and I’ve made loads of skirts that way. This new version has an invisible elastic waistband and having two seams allows you to peg (narrow) the skirt towards the hem. This version is handy when are trying to use large scraps or when trying to centre a detail in the fabric, like the leopard one. Plus it’s nice to have more than one way to do things. This is super easy but I’m going to explain in lots of detail because these really easy things are the kind of thing beginners look for. When I was learning, I really relied on bloggers who wrote down all the steps. I loved that help and want to make sure that beginners are set for success! And don’t worry if it takes you longer to make, it takes time to build the sills and confidence to whip these things together.

These skirts don’t use much fabric, mine used 3/4 metre. Of course, it depends on how long you want your finished skirt to be. Most stretch fabrics will work fine but I like mine to have a little lycra/spandex/elastane so that the skirt doesn’t bag out during the day. Stretch fabric also means you’ll need to use a stretch stitch or you’ll pop all your stitches when you put your skirt on. Most new machines have a lightning bolt stitch (basically a narrow zig zag) designed for stretch sewing but a regular zig zag is fine. I also suggest using a ballpoint or stretch needle. If you have an overlocker or serger, you can use that too. Oh and you’ll need some one inch or one and a half inch elastic, enough to go around your waist.

Before we get to the sewing we have to make a pattern. You can certainly draw yours up on paper or pattern trace or Swedish tracing paper and then you can use it over and over. Because this is so simple, I tend to draw it straight on to the fabric with an erasable fabric marker or chalk. And as you can see, I usually have a feline supervisor as I draw. The main measurement you’ll need is your hip measurement or your widest measurement around that area. This could be just around your hips but for some it will encompass part of your bum or belly. You’ll also want to measure from your waist to where you want the hem to sit. Better to go a touch long than too short! Now a little math, nothing too hard. I am loathe to put my own measurements here (because nasty people) but I shall because I feel brave today! And when I want to make one, I know which measurements to use!

• Take your Hip measurement and minus 3″ or 7.5cm
• Divide that measurement by 2, this is your ‘width’ measurement.  24″ for me
• Length from waist to knee plus 4″ or 10cm, this is your ‘length’ measurement. 28″ for me

Once you have this figured out, make a rectangle with these measurements. A clear, gridded quilters ruler makes it easy to make sure everything stays square. Now, measure in one inch (2.5cm) along the width line at the waist and hem on both sides. Measure 6 inches (15cm) along the length at all four corners. Connect the dot and you should have something like the above. It brings it in a little at the waist and pegs it a little at the hem. These are our final cutting lines.

You’ll need to cut two pieces this shape. When you are cutting, make sure that the stretchiest part of your fabric is aligned so that it will stretch around your waist (not down the length). Lay the two pieces right side together and sew along the side seams. Use a ¼” or 6mm seam allowance and a stretch stitch and back stitch at the beginning and end. I don’t pin but don’t feel bad if you want or need to pin!

Now to get a waistband happening! I prefer not to measure my elastic before sewing it on. That might seem risky but it’s much easier. Decide which side is the back and which end will be the waist. Find the centre of the back waist and lay the end of the elastic on the wrong side, flush with the raw edge. Use a ¼” or 6mm seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Go a few stitches in and back stitch. Now gently tension the elastic but not the fabric. You’ll need to sew a bit and readjust and sew a bit more. When you get to where you started, overlap by a centimetre or two (1/2”) and back stitch. Cut off any excess elastic.

For the invisible part of the elastic waistband, flip the elastic to the inside. Now align the seams of the skirt and the seam on the elastic. Make sure the elastic is nicely pushed up. Use a normal straight stitch to ‘stitch in the ditch’, that is to stitch over your previous seam. Just sew where the elastic is and back stitch at the beginning and end. Do this for both side seams. This will keep the elastic on the inside. See how it doesn’t have that puckery elastic look on the outside? You can totally tuck a top in and it flows beautifully. Invisible elastic waistband done!

Last stop, hemming! If you want to…I leave many of my stretch garments un hemmed! Not because I am lazy (although sometimes it comes from that) but I often feel that stretch is better left to flow. Hemming can bring a stiffness that I dislike. Also, stretchy stitches don’t look like straight stitches and I think sometimes hemming can look more homemade than not bothering at all. Stretchy fabric doesn’t fray so you are free to not hem. If you are careful cutting, no one will be the wiser. And if you think the sewing police will get you? My hems (or lack of them) have been variously inspected by members of the Australian Sewing Guild (ASG) and they thought it was a fabulous idea! But if you do want to hem, turn the hem up 1/4 ”- ½” or (6mm – 1.2cm) and sew with a stretch stitch, backstitch at beginning and end.

And that’s it! You have an awesome new stretchy pencil skirt that is ready to rock! Such a no fuss sewing approach to a no fuss garment. And the making is super fast! The kind of thing you can make during nap time and wear to dinner. I have made tonnes of these pencil skirts for my crowd. Even my hairdresser asked me about them because she wears short pencil skirts over leggings most days. And you could totally go short if you wanted! Make these your own in every colour and print, you won’t regret it! Actually, I’m wearing one as I type. Comfort and style baby! If you whip up one of these, I’d love to see xxxx