Sew: A Nautical Bias Skirt Tutorial {Half Circle Skirt w Bias Hem & Button Tab}

This skirt is just another version of my half circle skirt. The stars of the show are the bias hem and button tab and the buttons themselves. I bought a bunch of these buttons from an Op Shop for $9. When I pulled them out for this project, I noticed that they said ‘Stokes & Sons, Melbourne’ on the back and of course my inner history nerd had to Google them. Apparently they’ve been Australia’s leading military button maker (and silverware, medals and more) since 1856! I doubt mine are worth anything even though there are several pieces in museums but it is nice to think that they once graced a military garment.

Anyway, on to the sewing! I used premade bias that is 1″ wide folded. I found mine in Spotlight but you could always make your own. How much you need will depend on the circumference of your hem, I used about 5m.

To make this skirt, start with the half circle skirt tutorial but stop after assembling the waist band but before sewing it to the skirt. We are going to make and sew on the button tab. Decide on how long you’d like your button tab and cut two lengths of bias that long. Press them open but make sure you can still see the fold lines, they’ll be a guide for sewing.

Use a ruler to mark the points on the wrong side of one strip. Pin the strips right sides together. Using the original bias fold lines and the lines you drew as a guide, sew around tab. Be sure to leave a 3-4″ gap in one of the long sides for turning.

Trim the points and carefully turn the tab right side out. Yes, it will take a while but you’ll get there! Poke out your points and press.Centre the tab on the side of the waistband with the raw edge and topstitch around to secure. This will close the turning gap too.

Then it’s back to the half circle skirt tutorial. I like to attach the waistband before adding buttons or I find they can get in the way. And of course, I chose a matching bias hem. That’s it! See, it’s a really simple variation of a really simple skirt. In fact it took longer to write the tutorial than than to make the skirt!