The inspiration for this two piece is really the fabric. I had been looking for some tiki fabric for a while but just couldn’t find what I was looking for until I found gold in the op shop! I wanted to make a half circle skirt & a top with it but there was only 2m of it and it’s only 109cm wide and has a directional print! I knew I’d have to get creative, so I set the fabric aside for a while waiting for inspiration to strike. And it did, in the form of a 1950’s wrap top pattern from Subversive Femme on Etsy. I knew if I added some contrast fabric & trims I could make a tiki two piece happen!
The very day that I had this fabric out, figuring out the plan for this two piece, I got an email from Lizzie over at Killer Kitsch. She was wanting a top and skirt tutorial to show in one of her famed Sew Alongs. I got straight back, saying that I was planning this tiki set and it was on… I’ve had such fun making this set! I tried two new sewing machine feet out and loved them both and I’ve tried a few new techniques too. For variety, I used my overlocker to finish the skirt (but it’s okay if you don’t have one) and more vintage finishes on the wrap top. I like to mix things up. Both projects are pretty straightforward, especially the top. But as always, I try to take you through all the little details. I learned to sew via these sorts of tutorials and I really appreciate those who made their tutorials beginner friendly. So if you are newer to sewing, I hope this makes things clear and for the more seasoned stitchers, I’m sure a quick glance will explain all. So please don’t see how long this is and freak!
I will say that this project is very, very heavy on the bias binding! I love the vintage vibes of bias binding and always use it for my skirt hems, so using loads of bias doesn’t put me off at all. And if you’re looking to build your bias skills, this project is perfect because it’s used in 3 different ways. But don’t panic if it’s not your thing! You could line the top to avoid using bias there and omit the piping and bias hem on the skirt and simply hem instead. I used purchased bias because I’m lazy like that and I keep a few 25m rolls on hand. If you want to make your own, I find this method the easiest way to cut my strips and this tutorial from Dana explains how to turn the strips into binding. I did make my own piping but you can buy it premade if you’d rather not make it from scratch. I just wanted bigger piping than I could find, plus it’s not difficult to make. It’s hard to tell you how much fabric you’ll need for this because it will depend on your size and width of fabric and if you’ve chosen a directional print. Same goes for bias etc. I have detailed what I used, hopefully it will help you gauge how much you will need.
As soon as I saw this original 50’s wrap top pattern from Etsy store Subversive Femme, it was love! The pattern has been loving reproduced by hand from an original 1950’s pattern by shop owner Bex. The pattern comes as PDF download in one size (Medium 34-36 inch bust, 28-30 inch waist) and is the bargain price of $6.27 AU! Obviously, that isn’t my size but I was enamoured enough to buy it and try and upsize it to fit. And it was perfect for this tiki look…
I’ll be honest, I am pretty intimated when it comes to resizing patterns. But I had such an (eventual) success resizing the corset pattern I used in my Queen Victoria costume that I was feeling emboldened. I used the method Jen from A Vintage Vanity demonstrates, which can be used to make a pattern larger or smaller. I was a little stressed at first but there’s only 3 real pattern pieces and it was surprisingly easy! I just followed her tutorial for each piece. I noted that the lower bodice piece had a kind of wonky line at the Centre Front/fold line, no big deal at all, I just made sure it was a straight line on my version. Other than just resizing each of the pieces, I wrapped the pattern around me and I decided to add some extra length to the tie as well. For the stay piece, I added length to it as per all the other pieces but rather than cut it as a separate piece I just documented the length for later. That’s really all you need to do! If you are new to changing the size of a pattern, this is a great pattern to start with because the fit is quite adjustable, so minor miscalculations won’t affect the whole look. Please give it a try!
The wrap top pattern comes with a scan of the original sewing instructions and specifies 1 yard of fabric and 8 yards of bias in the pattern for the original size. When I first made it, I used 1m of fabric, 9m of bias and some ribbon scraps. Again, I can’t tell you exactly what you’ll need because it will depend on the size you make etc. This is massively heavy on the bias binding and I love that for the contrast in the finished garment and the vintage vibes but if you are not into that, you could skip the bias altogether and just line the top. And if modern finishes like overlocking seem right to you, you can totally use them for the side seams and where the upper and lower bust meet. I just like to be cute sometimes, so I finished my seams with bias and ribbon, as you’ll see…
For the top I used:
- 1m tiki fabric (109cm wide)
- 9m bias tape (19mm single fold)
- 0.5m satin ribbon (1cm wide)
I realise now I’ve cut the skirt that the stripes are printed sort of wonky on the fabric. Thusly I am making no attempts to pattern match and have cut the side piece slightly off grain to conserve precious fabric. Also, don’t forget to flip the side back pattern piece when you cut the second one if you have a directional fabric! I almost did and that would have been terrible. Again, don’t forget to clip notches! They are important, especially those that indicate where to gather to and from.
As the pattern directs, I moved to a longer basting stitch length and stitched a row of gathering stitches between both sets of notches, with no back stitches and leaving long thread tails (one in black so it’s easirt to spot). I also stitched the bottom gathering stitches (between the notches again) to save time. I pulled on the bobbin threads to gather the fabric for both sets of upper gathers, adjusting until the length matched the stay (piece E) or to the measurement, if you noted it like me. Once I had the upper gathers the right length, it was time to bind the upper edge.
I laid my bias so the right sides of the garment and bias were touching, unfolding one edge so that raw edges were aligned. I got my foot and needle aligned, so I could sew right in the fold, all the way along. Once I had that figured out, I stitched along the fold, all the way to the end. While looking at the front, I folded the bias to the back and pinned through the front. That way I could be sure to catch the bias in the next part of stitching. I then topstitched close to the edge of the bias. This technique can be used later on, where I use a bias binding foot.
Using the same method as before, I gathered the lower edge of upper bodice to match notches on the lower bodice. Pin upper to lower. There’s a tricky V shaped seam here but don’t stress! To get a neat finish on a pointy seam, match centre fronts with a pin but don’t pin too close to the point, so you can manipulate it once you are sewing. You can also clip into the seam of the upper bodice to help ease it. With lower bodice on top, drop the needle at the centre, in line with point, gently arrange fabric and sew. Begin at other end, sewing towards centre this time & to meet your fist stich line. It was really hard to capture in photos, so you may want to check out this video too, she doesn’t sew from the centre but I found it helps. If all this pointy seam stuff freaks you out, just snip the point into a more gentle U and roll with that.
I like to cover the seam with bias binding. It’s a neat, vintage finish and I find that it tucks nicely under bust and supports the shape of the garment. But overlocking would be fine too. I just folded the bias tape over the seam and stitched it down in one pass but you could also use the method used for binding the top edge of the upper bust. Dealers choice. I pressed the seam up towards the bust.
Pin and sew side pieces to bodice, leaving a 2” gap in left side (when worn) back stitch several times near the gap, to provide stability when the ties go through. I pressed the seams open. Again, I’m going for some vintagey finishing here but overlocking would be fine too. I trimmed the non gap side seams a little and then pinned a piece of bias over the seam allowance. I topstitched along either side of the seam allowance, to enclose the raw edges. If you fancy, you could insert some boning in there too. On the gap side, I covered the raw edge of the seam allowance with ribbon and top stitched the ribbon to the seam allowance only (sewing through just the ribbon and a single seam allowance). I then topstitched the free edge of the ribbon to the top. Rinse and repeat for second seam allowance. I find this adds a little stability when the tie goes through the gap. And again, you could add boning to these channels. I trimmed any excess ribbon or binding, ready to finish binding my top.
So, at this point you are really so close to finishing! And I have the foot that is going to make this go so lightning fast. I have always used the method I explained above (when binding the top edge of the upper bodice) and it does take some time when you have a long length to cover. Enter the adjustable binding foot! I have had mine for ages and never used it. I bought if for around $8 on eBay. Basically, it curves the binding around the raw edge for you. I found this video that demonstrates how to use it nicely. It means that you only have one pass of stitching to do and you know you are catching the back side. It took a little practise and adjustment to get just right but once I had the knack I was off! It’s genius and it made light work of all the binding on this top.
The sewing pattern is designed to be a halter style and instructs you to allow 20” or 50 cm for each tie (at the beginning and end of binding). I am the sort of person who finds a bra mandatory and decided to make mine regular shoulder straps, so I only allowed 14” or 36cm. I marked 14” or so from the beginning of my bias tape with a pin. I loaded the bias into the binding foot and began stitching. When I got to my pin, I tucked the top edge of the top into the foot and stitched around all the raw edges. I slowed down towards the tight curves at the end of each tie and just adjusted, stitched a few stitches and adjusted. The foot went around quite well! Once all the edges were bound, I continued on for another 14” to make the strap. I tried on the top and pinned the straps in the back and quickly topstitched them into place and trimmed the excess. And my tiki two piece dream is complete!
I am so in love with how this project turned out! I’ve made this top before and know I’ll be making it again. It has the perfect amount of coverage, while still having a low back and a regular nude bra hides well enough. I’d originally planned to go with a different colour binding but the black really adds some versatility. I think this would look so sweet with my leopard print denim shorts and will work with quite a few of my skirts. You can bet you’ll see it in various combos on Instagram in coming days!
Of course, such a wonderful tiki set needed a special place for photos! My photographer (my lovely Mum) and I headed to Hades Hula House in Semaphore South Australia. They very kindly allowed me to snap a few pics while I sipped on a cocktail (definitely ask first!). If you’re local, I highly recommend checking them out. They have an amazing selection of cocktails and food including vegan options. We had a lovely chat with our bartender Honni and the cocktail she made was just beautiful – both to look at and to drink!
Other Outfit Details
- Floral headpiece was handmade by my mum
- Monstera earrings from Miss Golly Gosh
- Carved wooden shoes from Crafts Hawaii
- Bamboo bag from eBay and repaired by 3D printed parts my husband made
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