Sew: Bonkers for Bias {Everything you need to know about sewing with bias binding}

Bias binding is just awesome! I love how it looks, as an obvious contrast, as subtle pop of colour or as an almost unseen finish. Bias tape is just so handy too. Bias can become flat or regular piping, be used to finish a raw edge (like a quilt, blanket or pot holder), replace a facing on a garment or finish a hem beautifully. I’ve used bias decoratively, as piping in these cushions and to make bunting…..

I use bias on the hem & pocket of these skirts and on the hem, waist and straps of this dress…..
There are a wealth of tutorials on all things bias and I have linked to a heap below for you but I do have a few things I wanted to share. It’s easy to get confused about the difference between single and double fold bias tape. This graphic from Dana Made It helps, basically double fold tape is single fold tape that has been folded and pressed in half. We clear?
I love using bias tape as a hem finish. I overlock my side seams and I have a little method I use to avoid bulk in the seams. Press your seams the opposite way to the way you want them to be when you are finished sewing, then sew the first pass of stitching. Clip through the overlock before pressing up your bias hem, with the seam the right way. One small piece of overlock will be to the front of the garment and the main seam to the back.This way you avoid having two layers of ovelock on top of each other in the seam. Here’s a pic….

I find bias really easy to work with and I think it’s a much easier hem finish on a curved skirt than trying to press up the hem and ease the fullness. That said, bias does require accuracy, if something is off in the first pass of stitching, you’ll notice when you press and sew the rest. I use a an overcast foot foot and adjust until my needle is in the right spot. There is a pic of mine below but there are all sort of feet (piecing or guide or 1/4″ or blind hem etc) that work for this, check out the feet you have!

It’s so tempting to rush but take your time pressing too, it will really improve your results! Lastly, I often use a contrast colour for bias hems. I used blue in my bobbin and red in my needle on the nautical rope skirt above. If you plan to do this be sure to test swatches and play with your tension settings, as sometimes a little of both colours will show on one side. I decided to stick with navy thread on the denim skirt, which means my stitching shows on the binding side. It’s all a matter of preference!
I hope you are inspired and off to add bias tape to everything!!! I have a huge list of tutorials below – everything from making and calculating your own bias, techniques for applying it and handy hints along the way. If you have a great tutorial, let me know and will add it to the list. Enjoy xxxx

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