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Sew: Bonkers for Bias {Everything you need to know about sewing with bias binding}

May 8, 2014

Sew: Bonkers for Bias {Everything you need to know about sewing with bias binding}

Bias binding is just awesome! I love how it looks, as an obvious contrast, as subtle pop of colour or as an almost unseen finish. Bias tape is just so handy too. Bias can become flat or regular piping, be used to finish a raw edge (like a quilt, blanket or pot holder), replace a facing on a garment or finish a hem beautifully. I’ve used bias decoratively, as piping in these cushions and to make bunting…..
Sew: Bonkers for Bias {Everything you need to know about sewing with bias binding}Sew: Bonkers for Bias {Everything you need to know about sewing with bias binding}I use bias on the hem & pocket of these skirts and on the hem, waist and straps of this dress…..
The Bread & Butter Skirt {Dartless A Line Skirt w Bias Waist & Hem Facing. Tutorial links included}The Bread & Butter Skirt {Dartless A Line Skirt w Bias Waist & Hem Facing. Tutorial links included}Sew: Bonkers for Bias {Everything you need to know about sewing with bias binding}There are a wealth of tutorials on all things bias and I have linked to a heap below for you but I do have a few things I wanted to share. It’s easy to get confused about the difference between single and double fold bias tape. This graphic from Dana Made It helps, basically double fold tape is single fold tape that has been folded and pressed in half. We clear?
Bias pic from dana made itI love using bias tape as a hem finish. I overlock my side seams and I have a little method I use to avoid bulk in the seams. Press your seams the opposite way to the way you want them to be when you are finished sewing, then sew the first pass of stitching. Clip through the overlock before pressing up your bias hem, with the seam the right way. One small piece of overlock will be to the front of the garment and the main seam to the back.This way you avoid having two layers of ovelock on top of each other in the seam. Here’s a pic….
Sew: Bonkers for Bias {Everything you need to know about sewing with bias binding}I find bias really easy to work with and I think it’s a much easier hem finish on a curved skirt than trying to press up the hem and ease the fullness. That said, bias does require accuracy, if something is off in the first pass of stitching, you’ll notice when you press and sew the rest. I use a an overcast foot foot and adjust until my needle is in the right spot. There is a pic of mine below but there are all sort of feet (piecing or guide or 1/4″ or blind hem etc) that work for this, check out the feet you have!
It’s so tempting to rush but take your time pressing too, it will really improve your results! Lastly, I often use a contrast colour for bias hems. I used blue in my bobbin and red in my needle on the nautical rope skirt above. If you plan to do this be sure to test swatches and play with your tension settings, as sometimes a little of both colours will show on one side. I decided to stick with navy thread on the denim skirt, which means my stitching shows on the binding side. It’s all a matter of preference!
Sew: Bonkers for Bias {Everything you need to know about sewing with bias binding}I hope you are inspired and off to add bias tape to everything!!! I have a huge list of tutorials below – everything from making and calculating your own bias, techniques for applying it and handy hints along the way. If you have a great tutorial, let me know and will add it to the list. Enjoy xxxx
[break]
Make Bias Binding
Traditional pieced bias method
Continuous bias method
Continuous bias binding calculator
Using a bias maker
Homemade bias maker
Finish Edges with Bias Binding
Armholes & necklines – single fold tape
Armholes & necklines – working with a 5/8″ seam allowance
Bias binding on knits using a knit bias tape
Binding a blanket & sewing curved bindings
Hemming with bias
Decorate with Bias Binding
Making piping
Scalloped piping
Bias tape bunting
Bias Binding Tricks
Attaching bias with bobby pins
Catching both sides of double fold perfectly
Mitred corners with bias tape
Adding bias to V necklines 
Sewing bias to curves
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4 Comments


The Bread & Butter Skirt {Dartless A Line Skirt w Bias Waist & Hem Facing. Tutorial links included} | Ask Sarah
May 8, 2014 at 5:16 am
Reply

[…] ← Previous Next → […]



Toni Stuart
May 8, 2014 at 9:01 am
Reply

What a great compilation of websites and blogs. It will certainly help when having problems with these sometimes very tricky sewing items.



    Sarah
    May 9, 2014 at 3:40 am
    Reply

    It’s wonderful that there are so many resources out there! I learned a few new tricks compiling it. I have small bias addiction! It’s such a cute vintage detail and makes hemming curves a breeze

Sew: Décolleté Collar Tutorial {Add A Vintage/Retro or 50′s Style Bust Collar To A Sweetheart Bodice} | Ask Sarah
September 30, 2014 at 3:27 am
Reply

[…] I just did a tutorial for that. I used my fave curved hem finish, bias binding. I love bias tape, I have whole post on the many ways to use bias tape. I knew I wanted to tweak the bodice at little. I searched high and low for the other dress I made […]



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